We were now on the final lap of our all too quick tour. We had selected Bédarieux as a suitable lunch spot on our way to Pézenas. However despite our bible listing three restaurants there, they were all closed. In the end we concluded that the vendage going on everywhere in that region was probably the cause of virtually every restaurant being closed. In desperation we followed signs to the Auberge du Château at Margon: to be rather rudely told they were fermé! However in the village, near an old brooding, menacing chateau we found a local spot, La Table des Vignerons and were served a very pleasant lunch by a friendly lady.

In Pézenas we stayed at the Hotel Moliere that we were pleased to find had been upgraded from the year before: it needed the renovation the only problem is they had not upgraded the staff at the same time!

The night we finally got out comeuppance in the form of an appalling meal: as bad as I can remember in France, and for that matter many other places. We were delivered this at the Le Poisson Verre ( 5, rue de la Foire).

We lunched the next day with our friends from Pézenas at Le Calamar (La Tamarissiere), which is located on the bank of the river Hérault, just before it runs into the sea. There are some good outside tables where the view that can be appreciated as well as pleasant interior restaurant. The menu is written on blackboards and obviously inclined towards seafood. Clearly the dishes offered depend upon what is available locally that day. However I found the menu adequately broad enough to cover most tastes. I had moules marinere followed by veal kidney. I thought the moules could have done with a touch of wine in the cooking, they seamed to me to be steamed in water rather that wine, and there was little onion and garlic. However the moules themselves were good and meaty and I enjoyed them. The kidney was cooked rose as requested and came with a nice selection of fresh vegetables. Others at the table had poussin salad and oysters as a starter, and steak as a main course. There were no complaints and everybody enjoyed a jolly Sunday lunch.

Le Patron grew on one as he got less stressed as a full Sunday lunch crowd were satisfactorily fed and watered!

On Monday morning we effectively set off home. We were headed for Geneva ad the flight back but first we had to overnight. Chambéry was selected on the basis that the Mercure hotel has a one star Michelin restaurant in the same building.