We set off for Sarlat-la-Canéda, which is a centre in the Dordogne . I had tried to book rooms but had failed and when we arrived we understood why: the place was chock-a-block. The only thing we did find out is that the hotel I had selected: Le Madelaine, looked to be decent hotel in the ideal location.

We drove on and headed for Périgueux looking or something en route. However the Dordogne was packed and we soon realised that not only did a room look unlikely but we were not sure it was our scene. Calling ahead to Périgueux we secured a room at the Ibis. Of course one of the problems of booking in advance, unless you know, is the location of the hotel. It is okay if you are going to a place with a decent restaurant and plan to eat there, but otherwise you need to know that there are decent solids within trundling distance. It is certainly not our plan to get the horses out after we have parked the carriage.

We knew were this Ibis was as it was on the Michelin town map in the guide. It was ideally located at the back of the rather strange cathedral, on the banks of the river.

After a few early evening drinks in the pleasant town centre we caterpillered to the Hercule Poireau. The top rated Michelin restaurant in town. We were careful not to be late as we had not booked, and we need not have bothered either: for on Saturdays Hercule Poireau is closed! I must admit this made me wonder about the Saturday night trade in Périgueux. Frustrated we set off in search of some suitable solids: and at that point we had seen nothing to inspire. Finally we asked the owner of a bar we had been drinking in and he sent us to Gregoire.

Located in the back streets of old Périgueux at first sight this is an anything but impressive restaurant. I think we might have fled except for the staff that were clearly keen. We were stuck in the old shop area rather than the favoured garden area (complete with canopy.). However thus persuaded to stay we found a small gastronomic gem. The Chef is clearly young but also inventive, every dish we had had a different angle on it. It did not all work as well as it should: mainly due to lack of colour in the dishes. We had: Ravioli of duck hearts and liver with morels: which turned out to be the ravioli ingredients on a single sheet of pasta with another single sheet placed over it but at a diagonal angle. The Ris de Veau was served in a beautifully polished copper pan, and my green figs crumble were green figs oven baked with a crumble mix sprinkled over them just before service. Even the walnut cheese was smooth and devoid of obvious walnut bits.

By the time we left there was a queue of locals waiting down the street. The décor would never make Michelin but the cuisine will soon be there!