In a town of moulins this one is bang in the middle, near the pont, and has water flowing all round it. The old building has been elegantly decorated with plenty of antique looking furniture and objets d'art. Michelin not only have awarded a star but have given it 3 red knives and forks suggesting it is particularly comfortable. The extra comfort was badly needed to soothe our patience as initially we were whisked to a table then left to try and get wine and service from the somewhat harried staff. The young commie waiter, or was he a bus boy, was apparently not senior enough to wield a corkscrew. However finally a man, who I presume was an owner, came to our rescue and from then on things improved; we were even on happy chatting terms by the end although the all important maitre d' barely gave us a glance all evening!

Of the three menus the five course 52 Euro Meli-melo gourmand leapt out as the one to have and I think that was most peoples' choice. With usual value attached to these menu vis a vis the a la carte menu there are few restaurants where one is not driven to the set menu and here was no exception.
After a pleasant amuse bouche the menu proper started with coquillages nicely presented in a delicate seafood sauce with a langoustine speared on the side. It was a top class starter and promised the high quality meal that was to follow. The barbue (brill) with asparagus was a clever fish course which whetted ones appetite for more but as the courses rolled on the portions were proved right. The lamb was succulent and for once I did not bitch about the peppers (capsicum) because the confit de poivron proved that peppers can be cooked without stewing them! The little cheese course was there to fill any holes left before the superbly presented strawberries finished the meal off. All that was then required was a couple of calvas to reflect that Michelin had not been wrong when they handed out this star and the early glitches over service had just there to make us appreciate the meal more - well maybe!

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One day after lunching in a Routier I went to the other extreme and drove to the 5 star luxury resort and spa of Les Sources de Caudalie which looks directly onto, and is owned by the only Graves Grand cru class Chateau Smith Haute Lafite. The location is great and the building inside in many ways stunning. I particularly liked the bar and lake which if I had found before I ate I would probably have eaten in.
Le Table du Lavoir is the junior restaurant and is located in a wonderful old barn like building with a high beamed roof, walls of small panes of glass and is dominated by a baronial fireplace. I sat outside in the May sunshine on the small terrace that is surrounded by a gentle fish pond. Almost as idyllic as one can get, the problem being the machinery spraying the blooming wines. However I noted they carefully kept a decent distance from the restaurant.
The lunch menu was simple and I would describe it as modern, light and healthy which goes with the spa concept. I started with green asparagus, which I vastly prefer to the white one, and followed up with gambas; to this two course meal I added 2 glasses of decent white Graves and an espresso, a perfect light lunch in great surroundings. An ideal place for ladies that lunch, or for anybody who just wants to sit in the sun and look at the vines, or just enjoy a great spot to ruminate.

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I often think one of the joys of wandering around France is finding a lunch spot by simply looking for the vehicles outside - and the joy is greater if that is a Routier - the famous French transport drivers' cafes. So there I was driving South out of Lesparre Medoc on the D1215. I had driven round the town and found nothing that looked suitable with a place to park, when a couple kilometres out of town I lucked upon a Routier bearing a Pelforth beer sign and the uninspired name of Le Relais. The cars, vans and lorries stacked up around it was all the evidence I needed that this was worth a stop.
Inside I had a good slab of rough pate, a decent andouillette and cheese, all washed down with a decent red vin ordinaire; of course in the middle of the Medoc it should be good. The wine with the meal always used to part of the deal but in recent more PC times this has began to disappear so it was joy to be offered it again. I added a coffee to that and received a bill of 14 Euros, 12.5 Euros for the meal and 1.5 Euro for the coffee. This was considerably less than the cost of a main course in many so called better places. It had needless to say a cafe like decor but that took nothing away from the food and the clients varied from dungareed lorry drivers to besuited businessmen.

I fear that despite the impeccable image that Paulillac might have as a wine town the food has always, for me, been very average. The Hotel de France and Angleterre may boast a Michelin recommendation but the decent rooms are now called Le Vignoble; before when I stayed there they were just the better rooms at Hotel de France and Angleterre. All very confusing and last time I ate at the hotel I was, to say the least, unimpressed. The lady that runs this establishment is one of those people who has been far too long dealing with stupid tourists to have any shame when it comes to the hotel's failings, and that persuaded me that the restaurant had not improved. The menu did not look any better for a starter. And Pauillac in late May was strangely short of dining options bearing in mind I was staying on the front and near the marina.
So when I found the newish Le Saint Martin I was relieved to think I might actually get a decent meal. After reading the menus I trundled up the steps and found a modern elegant restaurant. The sole server was a polite middle aged woman - I suspect an owner - and she performed well although not for the first, or last time, on this trip I felt another staff member would have been preferable.
I ordered a half bottle of white Graves and an a half bottle of the Pauillac co-operative red, Le Rose Pauillac. Many more moons ago than I dare to think about I did the vendage at Chateau Pontet Canet, just up the road opposite Mouton Rothschild. That experience taught me that the vineyards are all mixed up. Often, picking Pontet Canet grapes, we would find the other side of the track was Mouton Rothschild or grapes that went to the co-operative so I felt the wine had every chance of being first rate even though it was a co-op wine. It was.
I opted for the menu de chef starting with foie gras which was great and then an interesting dish described as raie avec vinaigrette chaude de poivrons rouge. I enjoyed the dish and it was certainly something different; I suppose would have preferred a more straight forward beurre noir but that would have been boring. But whatever my preference the cooking was interesting and first rate. The cheese board was good and the chocolate mousse exceptional with a lovely bitter orange after-taste.
Finally a place in Pauillac that is worth a detour, not a big one but this is certainly a proper restaurant in all meanings of the word and a damn sight better (I am sure) than the hotel.

Sarlat is a wonderful medieval town at the centre and I had set out to wander round and browse a few menus but the Gods interrupted with a thunderstorm. The first restaurant I dropped into effectively drove me out and I remembered my research had placed me near this Michelin recommended restaurant. So I risked the rain and the ancient steep steps up to get into what I hoped would be a suitable refuge.
The baronial hall style dining room did not exactly ooze warmth as the rain and darkening skies suggested winter rather than late May. I was summarily shunted to a small table and in the nearly empty restaurant I eyed the larger tables and smarted but to be fair, as the evening unfolded, the other tables filled up so they were right! They were a slightly officious head waiter and harassed girl. Both perfectly competent but they did not have much time, or seemingly inclination, for pleasantries.
I ordered a glass of white wine as an aperitif and looked at the menu, plus a blackboard that was propped up with the daily special menu on it. I have to say the menu was very limited and so the daily specials took centre stage and I suspect most people use that menu.
The starter was described as Cappuccino de cèpes avec bonbon de foie gras. The presentation was interesting with what turned out to be three deep firied balls of goose liver on a sheet of crisp moulded filo pastry; underneath was wild mushroom soup (cèpes) with a good dollop of cream on top. Cappuccino I suppose and this part of the dish I rated but the deep fried goose liver was frankly rubbish. The goose liver dissolved in the frying process.
The main was confit de canard, purée de chirozo. The presentation again featured filo pastry in the form of a couple of rolls. Again the interesting presentation, but certainly not the best confit I have had, but the chirozo purée was strange but did quietly work; it was not just chirozo but vegetable as well. Overall I was not impressed and very ordinary would be my summary.
At this point I requested cheese before the sweet I had ordered at the outset. I needed it to fill a hole as well as finish the excellent bottle of Cahors I was drinking. The head waiter growled but did produce a small but just about adequate cheese plate. On this trip I was regularly asked about dessert before the meal and it is a habit I dislike To an extent what I want will depend upon the earlier courses.
Soupe de kiwi was the special dessert and it definitely had that little touch of class I was looking for. The dish was served in a pot, complete with clips, which would be more familiar to a person buying preserved meat. The top had ice cream followed by a fruit mousse and then the kiwi fruit soup. It was a good portion.
All in all not a bad meal but I felt it did not deserve the accolade of a Michelin mention. I am sure one or two other places in town would have done as well and I would not have had to risk life and limb on those steps!

This is small family run hotel restaurant on the edge of the Troncas forest. The village is quiet and the location ideal for a peaceful stop. I dined in the back garden under a spreading chestnut tree. There were several Brits trekking from north to south and vice versa and this seems a good stop being about 5 hours from Calais. It took me 3 hours from CDG.
I arrived here after a fast drive from CDG in order to watch the Grand Prix; my plane had been delayed so I was marginally stressed. I admittedly arrived in the middle of a busy lunch service and madame boss curtly informed me the check in was 3pm. But she relented and saw I got a room immediately.
The rooms are adequate rather than luxury but at Euros 51 that is what one expects: clean and bright with an adequate bathroom.
The dinner in its idyllic location left me with mixed emotions. After 14 hours in an aluminium tube from South East Asia it was great to sit outside and enjoy the green and the birds, but the food itself whilst inventive did not quite reach my expectations.
I opted for the Euros 50 menu and started with rilletes de saumon aux écrevisses et salade d'asperges à l' orange at au poivre vert. This was a good dish well presented with plenty of inventive decoration as well a good dollop of mousse served on asparagus with a fresh water crayfish decorating the plate. That I understood and it looked good, so I was less certain what the salami slices were doing. It may have appeared impressive but was in my mind a little OTT.
For mains Filet mignon de porc et ses escalopes de foie gras de canard et ris de veau poelées was also an immensely complex dish with lots of detail including the carefully stuffed potatoes that were scooped out and then filled with potatoes à la crème. The meat mix of well cooked pork fillet, duck foie gras (over cooked to my mind) and sweet breads really did not work for me. I dislike criticising because I appreciate a great deal of work and thought had gone into the first two courses but I sort of felt Patrick was trying to re-invent the wheel. The final two courses were a good cheese board and crème brulée.
Karin, Patrick's wife, did the waiting and flitted around seeing all was right; she seemed to have forgiven me for my early arrival. And as the sun went down we chatted and relaxed.
This is a young couple trying hard to make living in a hard business. There is no doubt they both work hard and they have considerable talent.
Au Coeur de Meaulne is certainly worth a visit but maybe stay with the tried and trusted dishes if you want to avoid any bumps!

For the third night in a row I managed to find an establishment that had been in the same hands for a number of years and like Claude Darroze had enjoyed Michelin stardom for many of those years. This is a more modern operation with comparatively recent extensive renovation including some decent rooms, of varying size but modern and chic, and a large restaurant jutting out from the hillside with a magnificent view across to the Black Mountains. The location is essentially rural on the edge of an old village that sits at the end of a range of hills.
We arrived in time for a late lunch, not that we wanted much but we had intended to stop on the road. However a starter of melon in various forms and Parma ham all washed down with bottle of Gewürztraminer whilst we sat in the sun outside was perfect.
That evening we sat at the picture window and watch thunderstorms tracking their way from the distant mountains as the view faded with the light. For food we had highly polished presentations of attentively prepared food on specially chosen crockery. I regret that I did not write down exactly what I had. I took photos and hoped I could get the details from the website: silly me. But I remember being less impressed with the taste than the presentation and found the portion sizes a little twee! Nothing was wrong but nothing quite had that je ne sais quoi for me! The pictures tell the story of a light fish roll, a good chunk of fish with razor clams and a small veal brochette.
A great spot to stop with good views and interesting village as well as an Inn worth a detour.

Sarlat has a unique medieval town centre and this hotel is but a few steps from it. It is a good old fashioned coaching style inn with acceptable bedrooms and a reasonable dining room. Acceptable means a high enough standard (hey, I am picky so if I say it is okay, it is, unless you are film star or Victoria Beckham). It is normally full as it is the best place in this fascinating town which contains a mass of dining options.
However in order to make certain we got rooms at the inn I booked and insisted we needed feeding that evening. There was a large group staying at the hotel but we worked around that and had decent service. The item that had caught my eye on a past visit, when not even the stable was available, was jugged goose. This was a dish I really wanted to try so a detour was concocted. I had, from the top menu lentil soup with truffle which was a massive portion of a very rich soup which was interesting but I would not have again. The middle course was Le médaillon de lotte rôti à l'orange which was strange more than anything else consisting of a massive ring of oranges with a piece of monk fish on top. Now to the potted goose as it is referred in English menu, although it is Le civet d'oie au vin de Cahors pomme confite et pruneaux in French. It was very rich in a way like a good coq au vin and had a distinct gamey flavour. I am glad that I have had it but not sure it is worth a second detour.
I think the best summary is that this is an old fashioned hotel with an old fashioned dining room; except for a few upgrades to the rooms it has probably not changed for decades.

This a small unpretentious hotel tucked away between the swish of Cap Ferret and the dross of Lacanau. I had nowhere booked and after briefly considering Lacanau I back tracked and sought a room at the inn. I was given a family room on the ground floor as soon as Madam realised I might have problem with the stairs and this led to the garden and swimming pool. Early doors I sat outside as the owners chatted to friends and ate en famille. I drank a couple of beers and conversed with the dog.
It was Monday and the restaurant was closed to others so I was the guest and was more than adequately fed: clearly not haute cuisine but more than adequate. The simple mixed hors d’ouveres of anchovy fillets, stuffed baby peppers, prawns, ham and artichoke hearts was particularly interesting. Afterwards I enjoyed talking to the owner about his passion for the deserts that had him following the Paris – Dakar rally on more than a few occasions.
A great place to stop in another wise pretty barren area.

This is a pleasant old coaching inn right in the centre of Langon, which is a chip and a putt from the Bordeaux perriferique down the autoroute (direction Toulouse). Claude Darroze has an enviable reputation having been in this location for a number of years. The operation has distinct correct feel about it: old fashioned maybe but right with applied modernisation.
We had a splendid meal and I went for the menu saveur and enjoyed Rouget and langoustine as starter, but the real star was the creamy poached eggs with crushed potatoes and morels as the second course: simple but superb. After that there was lamb, fromage and a splendidly designed pudding. My sister had the menu saison with asparagus, braised fresh mullet with fresh tomato and basil sauce followed by cheese. The service was spot on and friendly for such an established place. The food was top notch and I rated it as the best meal I had on my two weeks in France.
The following morning as we were checking out there was a cluster of mature gentlemen in the small reception area: I knew one to be the head waiter, one other was the head chef and the other I presume the said Claude Darroze. They had all clearly been together for a long time but were enjoying life and as friendly as could be: maybe because they were my age group and I had obviously come for the food.

Rions is an ancient fortified village overlooking the Garonne. I had tentatively driven through the gate house and up to this attractive square tree lined and with the top open with a view across fields to the river. Opposite this open end is an attractive typical French building that looks like it was once the town hall, or similar. It bears the inscription Rions 1912 at its front peak. There was a sign saying Auberge but very little movement or sign of life. Needless to say I was not sure it was open. I had just got out of my car to check when a gentleman exited the auberge and walked to his car and drove off. Obviously seeing my confusion he stopped and gave me a thumbs up sign. I needed no second invitation.
In side is a pleasant parquet floored room with wooden furniture and black table clothes with an old stove sitting at in the chimney looking no doubt as it did many moons ago. The sun shone through the narrow high windows as I was greeted by a pleasant host. I suspect she was the wife of the chef.
I had a hot goats cheese salad with lamb chops as mains. I drank a very agreeable bottle of Lezongars (Website) which is a local wine maker in the class premier cotes de Bordeaux.
An other excellent find and well worth a detour to see this fascinating old village as well as finding a very acceptable repas.
On a passing note I knew very little about premier cotes de Bordeaux and Graves (the other side of the river) before visiting this area. The vineyards are mainly small and make varied wine: generally much softer than the classic Bordeaux big names because predominate grape is often Merlot. In the case of the L’Enclos du Château Lezongars that I had the mix is virtually 50/50 Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

It was a great find discouvered the classic way: it was lunch time and I sought a restaurant with a full car park. The French take lunch seriously: it is, to most, the main meal and two hours is taken. It was a quarter past one and I was even concerned about being late. Trundling in through the front door I found nobody: just an attractive old bar but following my nose and conversation noises to the left an attractive dining room overlooking a swimming pool and garden was revealed. It is a large dining room with beams in part, with half the walls glass: elsewhere where bright prints on white walls with comfortable tables and chairs. The size of the dining room confirms La Luma’s popularity before the new motorway, when this road was the main Bordeaux to Toulouse artery.
There was a decent enough menu but I looked no further than the daily blackboard which offered a among others “cassolette de ris de veau sa tranche de foie gras poelee.” Ordering this I received a steaming tureen of ris de veau in a nice thick gravy with a decent chunk of fresh foie gras grilled on top, with this came a basket of fresh bread. I followed this with a plate of cheese. Magnifique: what better lunch could I seek whilst on the road!

I was in a slight panic when I trundled into this restaurant: it was Sunday lunch time and I had decided on a Michelin selected restaurant but found to my dismay that I was waved off: complete! I drove around Montauban in some desperation before I finally followed a sign to La Cuisine D’Alain, but I was put off by the proximity of the railway station. When I found the place open and with a table I was more than happy. Of course I then saw the sign that said Maitres Cuisiniers de France and realised I had been stupid: I had that guide in my car and it has never failed me yet!
When I arrived I was told, rather grandly, that I must eat off the menu. I said I had no problem with that: well I was desperate! I was escorted through a large restaurant and offered a seat on the terrace: this was joy indeed as that Sunday was the first day, since my arrival in France, it had been warm enough to sit outside and this attractive geraniumed terrace was just the kind of place I wanted to be. The menu was limited but adequate for me as I selected Duck foie gras followed by beef and then the offering was cheese followed by the desert chariot.

I worked it out half way through the meal as I watched the desert chariots (note the S) being wheeled around and the loving way in which the head waiter prepared the deserts with dribbling of this and that coulis, then finished the pattern off with knife. The foie gras was good and nicely cooked, the little steak was excellent served with the interesting addition of a small tortilla type pancake, the cheese board was massive and the cheese was in great condition but the whole meal was about the desserts! Not only was the desert offering lovingly presented and on offer was virtually every type of desert imaginable, then in addition each helping was three deserts on the gloriously decorated plate. Before the chariot arrived a couple of taster style desserts including an éclair was presented: just to get you in the mood so to speak. I know places where those tasters would have been the dessert!
Do not get the impression that the desserts were the only good part of the meal: they were not; However they were magnificent but I can get foie gras and steak elsewhere, and to be fair the cheese trolley was worth a few lines as well. Worth a decent detour: especially for a sunny Sunday lunch!

I had a discussion with Francisco the charming owner of Demura about exactly what it is? Michelin gives it a few red turrets suggesting it is a comfortable hotel. On his website Francesco says ‘passionate about food.’ I suggested restaurant avec chambers was a better description as the hotel status belittles the splendid food that is served within this delightful petite chateau.
The house is set well back from the road with tree lined drive and plenty of grass to keep Francesco busy on mowing duty when the grass is growing. At the back of the house is a charming terrace on which I ate breakfast just outside my room everyday and in a hedged in area a swimming pool lurks. The area surrounding is steep hills with the black mountain towering over this attractive valley. Not far away are some high lakes that are picturesque summer destination: barely surprisingly then, that from early July to mid-September all eleven rooms are booked solid. However for the rest of the year this is a wonderful haven either for a night or a few days.
This website suggests food is the main attraction of this chateau in the hills. Francesco, who is from Italy, spent his youth working in some of the finest hotels in the UK: from the Ritz to the Old Course Hotel, as a waiter and often the maitre’d. However since setting up his own hotel Francesco has taken to the kitchen. As he explains as a good waiter you must understand food, and maybe all those hours spent looking at it and not being involved in putting it together has stirred up some hidden juices. I understand because I have indeed worked and indeed earned my living as a chef: primarily because I owned businesses that needed a chef. Fully trained and experienced chefs are a tricky breed and if you are not in control: which you seldom are unless you can say: I’ll do it: they will quickly control you and your business.
Francesco produces a four course fixed menu each night. There is no choice unless you express an allergy or similar to the offered food. This is not bad because you will be exposed to some wonderful new ideas: such as carrot capochino. This is smooth full flavoured hot carrot soup with pesto crafted into the top. I also had wonderful gnocci and large individual ravolli as starters. The best main course I had was described as veal but not white veal: this was more like baby beef. The fillet was cooked and seasoned to perfection and served simply on a bed of baby grilled artichokes. This course is followed by cheese: one option I had was a brie split in half horizontally with a thick cream cheese and walnut layer being spread before putting the cheese back together again. The final course is desert occasionally featuring tiramisu with a wonderful creamy.
This is all served in a elegant dining room which features art deco as well as modern art. The house wine is carefully selected and thoroughly recommended and comes from a vineyard about an hour away in lower Longuedoc.

De-luxe restaurant, French classical,60, (In Mercure Hotel)
L'Essentiel is a very serious restaurant located in a glass pyramid opposite the station in this attractive town, best known as a winter sports centre. Inside the glass pyramid is a comfortable restaurant with well spaced tables and pleasant armchairs to relax in. The restaurant oozes seriousness with displays of freshly baked breads, a massive cheese board and plenty of polished glass and under stated but elegant show plates.

The top menu degustation is not for the non serious eater in that it is priced at Euros 82. The only slight catch is that all persons at the table must have this menu, and whilst at first sight that may seem unreasonable, having had the menu I can understand why: it would be impossible to pace other dishes around those many courses.

We started with two off the menu items. The amuse bouche was a kind of wild mushroom tart with plenty of diced and salted mushrooms on delicate flaky pastry. Then, as we expected the first course, a taster course arrives. This was four items on a wooden plank. In our case it was a very light smoked salmon mouse, a tiny portion of mussel soup, foie grass mouse and a little smoked duck on a pastry stick.

The first real course was pan fried Goose liver on toast, with a slice of fresh fig and essence of beef. The goose liver fell apart and was suitably pink.

Next a smiling lobster's head supported by its tail on a bed of tomato confit which was cleverly both solid, as in slice, and soft, as soft fruit. Of course the lobster was delicious and the whole presentation was almost too good to spoil!

The red mullet fillet came with seared tuna and a mushroom tart: again a great presentation with loads of different flavours and consistencies.

I must admit I am not a great fan of the dreaded sorbet course, it may clear the palate but I always thought that was what wine was for! Anyway we now had an interesting lemon sorbet with basil.

I am not sure which the main course would be in a menu such as this? I suppose there is not one! However the final meat course was pigeon with foie gras, well that was the description. In reality it was the barely cooked pigeon breast in small pastry cornets. There were three flutes and one included foie gras. There was also a pigeon leg to suck on. For me this was great dish as I like game and enjoy pigeon. This was certainly the most imaginative way that I have had it. And at the end of a large meal this was light enough to please, but would not be too much.

The comment about too much suddenly became very relative as there were two courses left. The cheese board looked great, but at this stage none of us really fancied doing it justice. However just when you thought the chef must have run out of ideas and we were thinking a light pud might just be fitted in somewhere, the pud arrived. Or maybe it would be better described as the table suddenly got covered in different puddings. The basket of gooey meringue biscuits looked good, but that was before another plank of goodies arrived. This included a chocolate soufflé, an apple tart, kiwi fruit mousse and fresh strawberries. Then as we finished this two more courses arrived in the form of pannacotta with blackberries and a really superb Chartreuse ice cream, doused with chartreuse. By the time we had finished we knew we had not only had a brilliant meal but we also felt a bit how one of those geese must feel just before it's liver is removed!

We stuck mainly to the local wines and they were adequate rather than memorable. I suppose with this type of meal one should have dived into the wine list and had some of the superb wines on offer. But this time I was more than happy to let the food do the talking; and what it had to say was more than enough!