Bordeaux and near - Le Saint Martin - a decent restaurant on the front in Pauillac
Le Saint Martin
5 Quai Leon Perrier
33250 Pauillac
I fear that despite the impeccable image that Paulillac might have as a wine town the food has always, for me, been very average. The Hotel de France and Angleterre may boast a Michelin recommendation but the decent rooms are now called Le Vignoble; before when I stayed there they were just the better rooms at Hotel de France and Angleterre. All very confusing and last time I ate at the hotel I was, to say the least, unimpressed. The lady that runs this establishment is one of those people who has been far too long dealing with stupid tourists to have any shame when it comes to the hotel's failings, and that persuaded me that the restaurant had not improved. The menu did not look any better for a starter. And Pauillac in late May was strangely short of dining options bearing in mind I was staying on the front and near the marina.
So when I found the newish Le Saint Martin I was relieved to think I might actually get a decent meal. After reading the menus I trundled up the steps and found a modern elegant restaurant. The sole server was a polite middle aged woman - I suspect an owner - and she performed well although not for the first, or last time, on this trip I felt another staff member would have been preferable.
I ordered a half bottle of white Graves and an a half bottle of the Pauillac co-operative red, Le Rose Pauillac. Many more moons ago than I dare to think about I did the vendage at Chateau Pontet Canet, just up the road opposite Mouton Rothschild. That experience taught me that the vineyards are all mixed up. Often, picking Pontet Canet grapes, we would find the other side of the track was Mouton Rothschild or grapes that went to the co-operative so I felt the wine had every chance of being first rate even though it was a co-op wine. It was.
I opted for the menu de chef starting with foie gras which was great and then an interesting dish described as raie avec vinaigrette chaude de poivrons rouge. I enjoyed the dish and it was certainly something different; I suppose would have preferred a more straight forward beurre noir but that would have been boring. But whatever my preference the cooking was interesting and first rate. The cheese board was good and the chocolate mousse exceptional with a lovely bitter orange after-taste.
Finally a place in Pauillac that is worth a detour, not a big one but this is certainly a proper restaurant in all meanings of the word and a damn sight better (I am sure) than the hotel.
Posted by Sam at July 7, 2009 8:04 AM
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