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Sarlat - Le Quatre Saisons, Sarlat - Competent rather than special

Le Quatre Saisons
2 Cote de Toulouse
Sarlat
Tel: 05 53 29 48 59
Website

Sarlat is a wonderful medieval town at the centre and I had set out to wander round and browse a few menus but the Gods interrupted with a thunderstorm. The first restaurant I dropped into effectively drove me out and I remembered my research had placed me near this Michelin recommended restaurant. So I risked the rain and the ancient steep steps up to get into what I hoped would be a suitable refuge.
The baronial hall style dining room did not exactly ooze warmth as the rain and darkening skies suggested winter rather than late May. I was summarily shunted to a small table and in the nearly empty restaurant I eyed the larger tables and smarted but to be fair, as the evening unfolded, the other tables filled up so they were right! They were a slightly officious head waiter and harassed girl. Both perfectly competent but they did not have much time, or seemingly inclination, for pleasantries.
I ordered a glass of white wine as an aperitif and looked at the menu, plus a blackboard that was propped up with the daily special menu on it. I have to say the menu was very limited and so the daily specials took centre stage and I suspect most people use that menu.
Le_Quatre_Saisons_Sarlat.jpgThe starter was described as Cappuccino de cèpes avec bonbon de foie gras. The presentation was interesting with what turned out to be three deep firied balls of goose liver on a sheet of crisp moulded filo pastry; underneath was wild mushroom soup (cèpes) with a good dollop of cream on top. Cappuccino I suppose and this part of the dish I rated but the deep fried goose liver was frankly rubbish. The goose liver dissolved in the frying process.
The main was confit de canard, purée de chirozo. The presentation again featured filo pastry in the form of a couple of rolls. Again the interesting presentation, but certainly not the best confit I have had, but the chirozo purée was strange but did quietly work; it was not just chirozo but vegetable as well. Overall I was not impressed and very ordinary would be my summary.
At this point I requested cheese before the sweet I had ordered at the outset. I needed it to fill a hole as well as finish the excellent bottle of Cahors I was drinking. The head waiter growled but did produce a small but just about adequate cheese plate. On this trip I was regularly asked about dessert before the meal and it is a habit I dislike To an extent what I want will depend upon the earlier courses.
Soupe de kiwi was the special dessert and it definitely had that little touch of class I was looking for. The dish was served in a pot, complete with clips, which would be more familiar to a person buying preserved meat. The top had ice cream followed by a fruit mousse and then the kiwi fruit soup. It was a good portion.
All in all not a bad meal but I felt it did not deserve the accolade of a Michelin mention. I am sure one or two other places in town would have done as well and I would not have had to risk life and limb on those steps!

Posted by Sam at July 7, 2009 7:55 AM

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Sarlat

Le Quatre Saisons, Sarlat - Competent rather than special

Le Quatre Saisons
2 Cote de Toulouse
Sarlat
Tel: 05 53 29 48 59
Website

Sarlat is a wonderful medieval town at the centre and I had set out to wander round and browse a few menus but the Gods interrupted with a thunderstorm. The first restaurant I dropped into effectively drove me out and I remembered my research had placed me near this Michelin recommended restaurant. So I risked the rain and the ancient steep steps up to get into what I hoped would be a suitable refuge.
The baronial hall style dining room did not exactly ooze warmth as the rain and darkening skies suggested winter rather than late May. I was summarily shunted to a small table and in the nearly empty restaurant I eyed the larger tables and smarted but to be fair, as the evening unfolded, the other tables filled up so they were right! They were a slightly officious head waiter and harassed girl. Both perfectly competent but they did not have much time, or seemingly inclination, for pleasantries.
I ordered a glass of white wine as an aperitif and looked at the menu, plus a blackboard that was propped up with the daily special menu on it. I have to say the menu was very limited and so the daily specials took centre stage and I suspect most people use that menu.
Le_Quatre_Saisons_Sarlat.jpgThe starter was described as Cappuccino de cèpes avec bonbon de foie gras. The presentation was interesting with what turned out to be three deep firied balls of goose liver on a sheet of crisp moulded filo pastry; underneath was wild mushroom soup (cèpes) with a good dollop of cream on top. Cappuccino I suppose and this part of the dish I rated but the deep fried goose liver was frankly rubbish. The goose liver dissolved in the frying process.
The main was confit de canard, purée de chirozo. The presentation again featured filo pastry in the form of a couple of rolls. Again the interesting presentation, but certainly not the best confit I have had, but the chirozo purée was strange but did quietly work; it was not just chirozo but vegetable as well. Overall I was not impressed and very ordinary would be my summary.
At this point I requested cheese before the sweet I had ordered at the outset. I needed it to fill a hole as well as finish the excellent bottle of Cahors I was drinking. The head waiter growled but did produce a small but just about adequate cheese plate. On this trip I was regularly asked about dessert before the meal and it is a habit I dislike To an extent what I want will depend upon the earlier courses.
Soupe de kiwi was the special dessert and it definitely had that little touch of class I was looking for. The dish was served in a pot, complete with clips, which would be more familiar to a person buying preserved meat. The top had ice cream followed by a fruit mousse and then the kiwi fruit soup. It was a good portion.
All in all not a bad meal but I felt it did not deserve the accolade of a Michelin mention. I am sure one or two other places in town would have done as well and I would not have had to risk life and limb on those steps!

Posted by Sam at July 7, 2009 7:55 AM

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