July 8, 2009
Moulin de Rosmadec - Top food in comfortable surroundings
Moulin de Rosmadec
F - 29930 Pont Aven
Phone: 02 98 06 00 22
Website
In a town of moulins this one is bang in the middle, near the pont, and has water flowing all round it. The old building has been elegantly decorated with plenty of antique looking furniture and objets d'art. Michelin not only have awarded a star but have given it 3 red knives and forks suggesting it is particularly comfortable. The extra comfort was badly needed to soothe our patience as initially we were whisked to a table then left to try and get wine and service from the somewhat harried staff. The young commie waiter, or was he a bus boy, was apparently not senior enough to wield a corkscrew. However finally a man, who I presume was an owner, came to our rescue and from then on things improved; we were even on happy chatting terms by the end although the all important maitre d' barely gave us a glance all evening!
Of the three menus the five course 52 Euro Meli-melo gourmand leapt out as the one to have and I think that was most peoples' choice. With usual value attached to these menu vis a vis the a la carte menu there are few restaurants where one is not driven to the set menu and here was no exception.
After a pleasant amuse bouche the menu proper started with coquillages nicely presented in a delicate seafood sauce with a langoustine speared on the side. It was a top class starter and promised the high quality meal that was to follow. The barbue (brill) with asparagus was a clever fish course which whetted ones appetite for more but as the courses rolled on the portions were proved right. The lamb was succulent and for once I did not bitch about the peppers (capsicum) because the confit de poivron proved that peppers can be cooked without stewing them! The little cheese course was there to fill any holes left before the superbly presented strawberries finished the meal off. All that was then required was a couple of calvas to reflect that Michelin had not been wrong when they handed out this star and the early glitches over service had just there to make us appreciate the meal more - well maybe!
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Posted by Sam at 8:11 AM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
July 7, 2009
Les Sources de Caudalie - Lunching in the sun with Ladies that lunch
La Table du Lavoir
Les Sources de Caudalie
Chemin de Smith Haute Lafite
33650 Bordeaux-Martilac
One day after lunching in a Routier I went to the other extreme and drove to the 5 star luxury resort and spa of Les Sources de Caudalie which looks directly onto, and is owned by the only Graves Grand cru class Chateau Smith Haute Lafite. The location is great and the building inside in many ways stunning. I particularly liked the bar and lake which if I had found before I ate I would probably have eaten in.
Le Table du Lavoir is the junior restaurant and is located in a wonderful old barn like building with a high beamed roof, walls of small panes of glass and is dominated by a baronial fireplace. I sat outside in the May sunshine on the small terrace that is surrounded by a gentle fish pond. Almost as idyllic as one can get, the problem being the machinery spraying the blooming wines. However I noted they carefully kept a decent distance from the restaurant.
The lunch menu was simple and I would describe it as modern, light and healthy which goes with the spa concept. I started with green asparagus, which I vastly prefer to the white one, and followed up with gambas; to this two course meal I added 2 glasses of decent white Graves and an espresso, a perfect light lunch in great surroundings. An ideal place for ladies that lunch, or for anybody who just wants to sit in the sun and look at the vines, or just enjoy a great spot to ruminate.
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Posted by Sam at 8:38 AM | Comments (1) | TrackBack
Le Relais - a routier for lunch + wine (Lesparre Medoc, D1215)
Routier
Le Relais
2km south Lesparre Medoc on the D1215
I often think one of the joys of wandering around France is finding a lunch spot by simply looking for the vehicles outside - and the joy is greater if that is a Routier - the famous French transport drivers' cafes. So there I was driving South out of Lesparre Medoc on the D1215. I had driven round the town and found nothing that looked suitable with a place to park, when a couple kilometres out of town I lucked upon a Routier bearing a Pelforth beer sign and the uninspired name of Le Relais. The cars, vans and lorries stacked up around it was all the evidence I needed that this was worth a stop.
Inside I had a good slab of rough pate, a decent andouillette and cheese, all washed down with a decent red vin ordinaire; of course in the middle of the Medoc it should be good. The wine with the meal always used to part of the deal but in recent more PC times this has began to disappear so it was joy to be offered it again. I added a coffee to that and received a bill of 14 Euros, 12.5 Euros for the meal and 1.5 Euro for the coffee. This was considerably less than the cost of a main course in many so called better places. It had needless to say a cafe like decor but that took nothing away from the food and the clients varied from dungareed lorry drivers to besuited businessmen.
Posted by Sam at 8:14 AM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Le Saint Martin - a decent restaurant on the front in Pauillac
Le Saint Martin
5 Quai Leon Perrier
33250 Pauillac
I fear that despite the impeccable image that Paulillac might have as a wine town the food has always, for me, been very average. The Hotel de France and Angleterre may boast a Michelin recommendation but the decent rooms are now called Le Vignoble; before when I stayed there they were just the better rooms at Hotel de France and Angleterre. All very confusing and last time I ate at the hotel I was, to say the least, unimpressed. The lady that runs this establishment is one of those people who has been far too long dealing with stupid tourists to have any shame when it comes to the hotel's failings, and that persuaded me that the restaurant had not improved. The menu did not look any better for a starter. And Pauillac in late May was strangely short of dining options bearing in mind I was staying on the front and near the marina.
So when I found the newish Le Saint Martin I was relieved to think I might actually get a decent meal. After reading the menus I trundled up the steps and found a modern elegant restaurant. The sole server was a polite middle aged woman - I suspect an owner - and she performed well although not for the first, or last time, on this trip I felt another staff member would have been preferable.
I ordered a half bottle of white Graves and an a half bottle of the Pauillac co-operative red, Le Rose Pauillac. Many more moons ago than I dare to think about I did the vendage at Chateau Pontet Canet, just up the road opposite Mouton Rothschild. That experience taught me that the vineyards are all mixed up. Often, picking Pontet Canet grapes, we would find the other side of the track was Mouton Rothschild or grapes that went to the co-operative so I felt the wine had every chance of being first rate even though it was a co-op wine. It was.
I opted for the menu de chef starting with foie gras which was great and then an interesting dish described as raie avec vinaigrette chaude de poivrons rouge. I enjoyed the dish and it was certainly something different; I suppose would have preferred a more straight forward beurre noir but that would have been boring. But whatever my preference the cooking was interesting and first rate. The cheese board was good and the chocolate mousse exceptional with a lovely bitter orange after-taste.
Finally a place in Pauillac that is worth a detour, not a big one but this is certainly a proper restaurant in all meanings of the word and a damn sight better (I am sure) than the hotel.
Posted by Sam at 8:04 AM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Le Quatre Saisons, Sarlat - Competent rather than special
Le Quatre Saisons
2 Cote de Toulouse
Sarlat
Tel: 05 53 29 48 59
Website
Sarlat is a wonderful medieval town at the centre and I had set out to wander round and browse a few menus but the Gods interrupted with a thunderstorm. The first restaurant I dropped into effectively drove me out and I remembered my research had placed me near this Michelin recommended restaurant. So I risked the rain and the ancient steep steps up to get into what I hoped would be a suitable refuge.
The baronial hall style dining room did not exactly ooze warmth as the rain and darkening skies suggested winter rather than late May. I was summarily shunted to a small table and in the nearly empty restaurant I eyed the larger tables and smarted but to be fair, as the evening unfolded, the other tables filled up so they were right! They were a slightly officious head waiter and harassed girl. Both perfectly competent but they did not have much time, or seemingly inclination, for pleasantries.
I ordered a glass of white wine as an aperitif and looked at the menu, plus a blackboard that was propped up with the daily special menu on it. I have to say the menu was very limited and so the daily specials took centre stage and I suspect most people use that menu.
The starter was described as Cappuccino de cèpes avec bonbon de foie gras. The presentation was interesting with what turned out to be three deep firied balls of goose liver on a sheet of crisp moulded filo pastry; underneath was wild mushroom soup (cèpes) with a good dollop of cream on top. Cappuccino I suppose and this part of the dish I rated but the deep fried goose liver was frankly rubbish. The goose liver dissolved in the frying process.
The main was confit de canard, purée de chirozo. The presentation again featured filo pastry in the form of a couple of rolls. Again the interesting presentation, but certainly not the best confit I have had, but the chirozo purée was strange but did quietly work; it was not just chirozo but vegetable as well. Overall I was not impressed and very ordinary would be my summary.
At this point I requested cheese before the sweet I had ordered at the outset. I needed it to fill a hole as well as finish the excellent bottle of Cahors I was drinking. The head waiter growled but did produce a small but just about adequate cheese plate. On this trip I was regularly asked about dessert before the meal and it is a habit I dislike To an extent what I want will depend upon the earlier courses.
Soupe de kiwi was the special dessert and it definitely had that little touch of class I was looking for. The dish was served in a pot, complete with clips, which would be more familiar to a person buying preserved meat. The top had ice cream followed by a fruit mousse and then the kiwi fruit soup. It was a good portion.
All in all not a bad meal but I felt it did not deserve the accolade of a Michelin mention. I am sure one or two other places in town would have done as well and I would not have had to risk life and limb on those steps!
Posted by Sam at 7:55 AM | Comments (0) | TrackBack
Au Coeur de Meaulne -A village inn that is trying very hard
Au Coeur de Meaulne -
20/22 Place de L'église
03360 Meaulne
Tel: 04 70 06 20 30
Website:
This is small family run hotel restaurant on the edge of the Troncas forest. The village is quiet and the location ideal for a peaceful stop. I dined in the back garden under a spreading chestnut tree. There were several Brits trekking from north to south and vice versa and this seems a good stop being about 5 hours from Calais. It took me 3 hours from CDG.
I arrived here after a fast drive from CDG in order to watch the Grand Prix; my plane had been delayed so I was marginally stressed. I admittedly arrived in the middle of a busy lunch service and madame boss curtly informed me the check in was 3pm. But she relented and saw I got a room immediately.
The rooms are adequate rather than luxury but at Euros 51 that is what one expects: clean and bright with an adequate bathroom.
The dinner in its idyllic location left me with mixed emotions. After 14 hours in an aluminium tube from South East Asia it was great to sit outside and enjoy the green and the birds, but the food itself whilst inventive did not quite reach my expectations.
I opted for the Euros 50 menu and started with rilletes de saumon aux écrevisses et salade d'asperges à l' orange at au poivre vert. This was a good dish well presented with plenty of inventive decoration as well a good dollop of mousse served on asparagus with a fresh water crayfish decorating the plate. That I understood and it looked good, so I was less certain what the salami slices were doing. It may have appeared impressive but was in my mind a little OTT.
For mains Filet mignon de porc et ses escalopes de foie gras de canard et ris de veau poelées was also an immensely complex dish with lots of detail including the carefully stuffed potatoes that were scooped out and then filled with potatoes à la crème. The meat mix of well cooked pork fillet, duck foie gras (over cooked to my mind) and sweet breads really did not work for me. I dislike criticising because I appreciate a great deal of work and thought had gone into the first two courses but I sort of felt Patrick was trying to re-invent the wheel. The final two courses were a good cheese board and crème brulée.
Karin, Patrick's wife, did the waiting and flitted around seeing all was right; she seemed to have forgiven me for my early arrival. And as the sun went down we chatted and relaxed.
This is a young couple trying hard to make living in a hard business. There is no doubt they both work hard and they have considerable talent.
Au Coeur de Meaulne is certainly worth a visit but maybe stay with the tried and trusted dishes if you want to avoid any bumps!
Posted by Sam at 7:42 AM | Comments (0) | TrackBack